Day 4 - Plitvice (HR) to Mostar (BiH)

Tuesday 23rd May
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Good day today as I finally got some decent biking roads in. The first part of the road down from Plitvice to Split was superb. Lots of twisties, nice views and not too much traffic. Last part was back onto the motorway which at least got me down into Split pretty fast.

Split was busy and very hot. The port was a really happening place - lovely azure water. Tons of tourists in the town and on all the beaches up the coast. Would have been nice to spend the night. From Split followed the Dalmation coast which was initially over developed but did get a lot nicer as I continued in the direction of Dubrovnik. Turned towards Bosnia in Baska Voda and took a stunning twisty mountain road right up the the border crossing. After the unbearable heat it was a joy to traverse the mountains and flout the very conservative speed limits and even beat the TomTom estimates.

Sat-nav lost the plot at this stage so I follwed the signs for Mostar. Got to a very modern looking border. First the Croatians waved me through and then a few hundred metres later I stopped for the Bosnians. I didn't have insurance for Bosnia so had to leave the bike and go back to some huts where I ended-up buying 17 days insurance for €15 despite reading somewhere that you can buy 3 days worth. After I showed the border-guard my insurance he also waved me through to the next check-point where some guy barely had the energy to wave me through. After another 100 metres I was stopped yet again to pay for a motorway toll. No idea how much but just handed over my card as I didn't have any Bosnian Scoobys. What a con, after about 2 miles of superb road, the motorway ended and I was diverted off through some back-roads into a town... Hope the toll was cheap. The sign-posts all contradicted themselves and I had to pull over and use my phone sat-nav which worked brilliantly.

Well the phone worked brilliantly until I got into Mostar which was a free for all. Lanes coned-off taking you straight into oncoming traffic, people not giving way, massive pot-holes, etc. Pretty bad. Glad I got the insurance. Struggled to find the bridge following all the road-signs and had to stop for directions twice. No man likes doing that especially when loaded-up with 3 navigation devices....

Parked-up 50m next to the Stary Most. Paid some kid €3 to guard my bike whilst I checked-out the old town and obviously the bridge. It was pretty cool - the re-build was well done but it's so steep to cross and slippy. Saw an old lady fall over and get assistance. More interestingly I saw one of the nutters jump off the bridge into the water quite some way below. He took ages before he jumped (encouragement, asking for donations, etc) so I didn't manage to catch the actual moment on video. Very cool though. Despite what people say, well worth the effort. Would make an awesome weekend trip.

Left Mostar in search of a nearby campsite. There were loads which I didn't expect along the river and stopped at  Blagaj bridge. Ended-up in a tiny one run by a friendly chap who saw I was hot and bothered and brought me a lemonade before doing any formalities. The campsite is literally on the river. Could have pitched the tent on the very edge but settled for a spot 20ft away, just in case. Was so hot that I took a shower straight away in my motorbike compression under-garmets - they needed a wash too.

The owner talked me into checking out some old Dervish house, up the river. Didn't really know what to expect but it was an amazing place built under an overhanging, massive cliff in the 15th Century and next to fast flowing water with rapids, etc. The religious guy started singing from the balcony, it was pretty special. So glad made the effort - the photos won't do it justice. The Ottomans are responsible for some pretty amazing places. The Moslem influence is here to see but it seems at easy will bars and scantily clad girls just outside these sites.

It was 9.15pm by the time I got back to my tent so crossed the bridge and am now sitting in a restarant overlooking my tent. Veal soup and trout that was just fished out of the river for me!

Bosnia is great. A bit wild west and free of all the EU norms. Cheap too.

Tomorrow back into Croatia for Dubrovnik (I think) before hitting Montenegro and the Bay of Kotor.

Mileage: 1540
Country count: 7 (GB, F, D, A, SLO, HR, BiH)
Beers: 8 + 0.5l of red + Blueberry Schnaps
Fines: 0
Bribes: 0
Ass pain: 3/10
Mechanical issues: 1 (headlight bulb & fuse)
Accidents: 1 (witnessed)
Coldness: 1/10

Comments

  1. Dana23 May 2017 at 13:29

    Brilliant views andy.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. SpiroZoren23 May 2017 at 14:12

      It was an epic place. Haunting atmosphere especially with the sound of the birds, the fast flowing water and the Dervish guy singing. Magical. Could have sat there all night.

      Delete
  2. Anonymous25 May 2017 at 04:04

    Cracking mate! Sogs

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Andy1 June 2017 at 13:03

      It was the most under-sold coolest place I may have ever visited. Perfect - but would probably not be as good if I were to ever return and there were loads of people there to spoil it. Special evening.

      Delete

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