Day 5 - Mostar (BiH) to Kotor (MNE)

Wednesay 24th May
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Woken by the call to prayer somewhere up the river. Probably the Dervish house I saw yesterday. Amazing voice, no dodgy over-amplification, I'd be happy with that as an alarm bell. Enchanting. Well someone operating what sounds like a saw-mill may have actually woken me. Peace in the countryside - not a reality.

The BBQ trout last night was amazing. The best I have ever eaten (and I've had a lot of trout). All that food and beer came to less than €20 which is pretty good going. In fact this morning I realised that it was 22 Bosnian Marks (about €11) but I told the guy to keep the change as I didn't do the Math. No wonder he was so pleased.

Having to replace a bulb and a fuse last night reminded me that I don't have breakdown cover outside of the EU so hope the bike hangs together. So far so good.....

Followed the advice of the guy at the campsite and took the mountain road to Dubrovnik, thus avoiding having to go through Nuem and doing 4 border crossings today. Dubrovnik is on an 'island' of Croatia and you have to pass through Bosnia's access to the Adriatic to get there if you follow the coast. The road was brilliant, twisty and empty but rough - ideal for the Tenere. I suprisingly entered an enclave of Serbia but there was no border crossing. Also saw what appeared to be dead snakes on the road. Sure enough, I ran over one slithering across the road too! I hate snakes. Lots of bright green gecko things too. Anyway, won't count Serbia today as I was in and out in 10 mins.

Once I got back to the sea, the coastal road to Dubrovnik was very nice. Not too built-up due to the geography but extremely nice. Rode right into the middle of Dubrovnik and parked in the old town (well struggled to squeeze my bike into a tiny space in between a ton of scooters). The old town is very pretty but rammed with tourist crap and crap tourists. Out of nowhere came thunder and lightining and with it heavy downpours. Like the others I sheltered under a canopy but then realised I was so hot and sweaty anyway that I may as well walk in the rain. Nice but Mostar was way cooler.

Headed down the road in the rain toward Montenegro, one plan in mind - spend the rest of my Croatian Kuna before Montenegro. Ordered a big pizza and a coffee and left all my shrapnel as a tip - perfect. I did have to endure some pretty bad Croation pop-music. Eurovision songs must come easy to these guys.

By the time I left the rain has stopped and I dried-off going down the road. Within an hour I was in Montenegro but not before the faff of having to buy another insurance green card - only €10 this time. It got really overcast as I approached Kotor and I went past the campsite that my sat-nav had selected. It was right and the edge of the water again but I wanted to get to Kotor itself. Got to Kotor. Stopped at the old castle / fort but not for long as the thunder started again and it started spitting.

I followed a tiny road around the bay - lots of apartaments to stay in but no sign of a camp-site. Finally saw something and rode in, followed by a group of French bikers. Could find the owner and a big dog on a chain ran-out and started barking at the French - brilliant the way they ran away not realising it was on a chain. I chose to ride on and found a better place just a couple of miles up the road. The sat-nav suggested that I needed to take a ferry but I had no idea where it went to so rode-on, which was a wise move. Only €5 tonight compared to last night's €15 but I don't think there is any Internet?

Kotor and the roads around the bay are lovely. Clear blue water again with mountains rising-up all around. The weather let it down a bit, but to be honest I was glad of the cooler temperature and even a bit of rain. Salad and Kebab for dinner even though I am still full after the pizza.

Tomorrow, will be a slow route across Albania to camp somewhere by lake Ohrid - Albanian or Macedonian side. Not sure yet.

Crap Internet here hence lack of photos.

Mileage: 1696
Country count: 8 (GB, F, D, A, SLO, HR, BiH, MNE)
Beers: 13 + 0.5l of red + Blueberry Schnaps
Fines: 0
Bribes: 0
Ass pain: 3/10
Mechanical issues: 1 (headlight bulb & fuse)
Accidents: 1 (witnessed)
Coldness: 1/10

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